Clean Climbing - Where?

Climbing without bolts in the backyard

To experience wild and pristine rock landscapes without human traces, it isn’t necessary to travel to the end of the world to places like Patagonia or Greenland. Self reliant climbing, finding your own route, leaving no traces: That is also possible in Switzerland and the bordering countries!  

Arête de la Vauchotte

Jura

It’s astonishing how many climbs in the Jura are suited for clean climbing. A lot of these routes are equipped with bolts but combined with a short approach and comfortable access, the Jura is the ideal entry to clean climbing. But also old hands get their money’s worth: While the beloved alpine climbs are buried under meters of snow, it is possible to climb completely clean multi-pitches in the Jura on a south face, or to test your fitness in clean 6c/7a’s.

Further information: Jura keepwild! climbs

Ticino

The undisputed hotspot for totally clean climbs in the medium difficulty range. On the summits high above Ponte Brolla the potential for climbing without bolts on high quality rock is almost unlimited. But caution, danger of addiction! Once under the spell of the wild mountains of Ticino, you will never get away again.

Further information: Ticino keepwild! climbs

Cima di Broglio

Gotthard & Grimsel 

To enjoy clean climbing, it takes well structured, solid rock. Aside the compact slabs, the bombproof granite in the Gotthard area and  at the Grimsel are ideal for that. As a result of the easy accessibility, a lot has been bolted in these areas, so it takes a bit of searching effort to find  really clean routes. Only one of the great routes on the Salbit, in the Göscheneralp Valley, remains unbolted – the West Ridge. A secret spot is the Gruebenkessel in the Grimsel area where the majority of the climbs is still clean.  

Further Information: Gruebenkessel

Hiendertellihorn SE-Wall in the Gruebenkessel

Bergell & Val di Mello 

There is hardly a climber who isn’t awestruck when looking at the impressing granite giants of the Bergell and the bordering Val di Mello. Most of the classics like the north ridge or the famous Via Cassin on the Badile have been sanified commendably – (almost) only the belays are bolted. Bolts do exist in the Bergell and the Val di Mello, but often with pretty far distances between them and only where there is no way to place nuts or cams.  

Further Information: Best of keepwild! climbs

In the Pakistan of Switzerland: Gemelli, Cengalo, Badile
Stockhorn WSW Ridge

Bietschhorn – Aletsch

In the shadow of the Eiger & Co. the summits of the southern Bernese Alps are a bit neglected by climbers. Without good reason – but luckily for people who love wild routes! Some of the wildest and loneliest climbs are situated in the Bietsch and Baltschieder Valley, at the Fusshörner or in the Fiescher Valley. 

Further Information: Best of keepwild! climbs

Valaisian Alps

The rock quality in the Valaisian Alps – from gravel pile to excellent – can be very variant within a small area. Around Arolla or the P. d’Andolla you find great keepwild! climbs in top quality rock. Those who wish to carry the idea of clean climbing up on a 4000er should have a look on the south face of the Obergabelhorn – the view on the north face of the Matterhorn vis-à-vis is unforgettable. 

Further Information: Best of keepwild! climbs

Mittelrück East Wall in the sunset light